I want to apply it to the TAD 17 chain on a Stihl 250 chainsaw. In winter it is very thick, will the oil pump be worse from this, will it fail from overload? And if it’s possible, what’s the principle, in the pump, of supplying oil to the circuit?
The oil pump, which is set at 180. 250 Styles. is generally practically indestructible. it has a brass cylinder. Even mining consumes twice as long as aluminum.
And the principle of operation is very simple. It’s a pity there is no illustration, and I haven’t seen it anywhere. If in words. two parts, a cylinder and a plunger rotating in it. The plunger has a milled scaffold at the end. During rotation, the plunger moves slightly back and forth.
Two holes are made in the cylinder against each other. When the flat of the plunger approaches the intake hole, it is slightly pulled out of the cylinder. a vacuum is created and a little oil is sucked in.
when the flat turns to the discharge hole, the plunger moves into the cylinder. pressure is created, oil flows through the channel to the tire. As you can see, in principle, you can’t damage the pump as much as you like with thick oil. it just won’t go and that’s it.
If the oil flows out of the tank in chainsaw idle mode. is this normal? Those. if you have to cut a little bit, then pour a little bit? And then during the inactivity of the saw, oil from the tank flows completely.
Not. This not normal. The problem is either with the oil pump or with the tank itself. In general, oil and fuel consumption is usually 1 to 1.
Leading tire sprocket on a chainsaw, how to lubricate? Is Mobil or Jcb hydraulic grease suitable, for example? What do you think?
stars on all tires (except Calm) are smeared, if you don’t smear, the bearing may crumble, and then the tire ends, and about Calm tires. on the one hand, it’s like a plus, and on the other. I saw Calm almost new tires with burned bearings.
A chainsaw drives a chain lubrication oil. At idle it pours very slowly, you give gas. it pours. In five minutes, all the oil is poured.
Does not respond to the position of the adjusting screw. Also, a little (0.5-1 mm), the sprocket, which rotates the chain, plays. Who faced such a thing?
You need to remove the asterisk and sort out the oil pump, and check the hoses for gusts. The drive sprocket must have a slight play. It should not be hard, vibration will go to the crankshaft.
The holes coincide when I put it, maybe when pulling up the chain, the hole moves away because oil does not get on the chain, but the chains can be used alone, how to blunt, remove, put in a new one, the old one to sharpen, etc. do so far in a cycle of three chains the tire did not run off?
The oval hole for lubrication on the chainsaw body is made in such a way that at any position of the tire within the range of adjustment by the chain tensioner, the combination of the lubricant holes on the tire and the body does not disappear.
Ideally, a set of chains, when using them on a saw in turn in a cyclic mode, and the bus should become unusable at the same time. There are two lubrication options. Well, in the sense. through which oil is supplied.
Most tires have a separate hole for lubricating the chain, and these large ones are used for tensioning. And some (and quite a few) do not have a separate lubrication hole.
And for lubrication, a free tension hole is used. In this case, it will certainly communicate with the groove of the tire. You can check the wire. This is neither good nor bad, it is a feature.
So. in the second case, quite large oil losses are possible if the sprocket cover does not fit snugly. Then it goes just right through (unlike tires with a separate hole), and drips down.
After a minute of idling the chainsaw, I pressed the gas a little several times on the gas to lubricate the chain, it began to flow very strongly onto the chain, which already formed a pool of oil under the saw. Where is the screw for adjusting the oil supply to the circuit? And how to make this adjustment?
Your model does not have an oil flow adjustment to the circuit; oil is automatically supplied. Carefully inspect and thoroughly clean the oil intake holes on the tire, carefully install the tire with a chain. In theory, it should help.
If a puddle of oil forms under the saw, then the most probable is a loose tire or a clutch cover that is skewed, resulting in a gap between the oil pump outlet and the tire lubrication hole, into which the oil escapes.
Tell us more about the oil pumps installed in chainsaws.
Very rarely on modern chain saws (including electric ones) non-plunger pumps are used. It can be said that they are not even applied at all. All of them work according to the same scheme.
The main details are an aluminum cylinder, rigidly fixed in the body and a steel plunger with a plastic gear, rotating in this cylinder. How it works: There is one small hole at the blind end of the cylinder. There is one more opposite.
One of them is suction, the second is pressure. On the plastic gear of the plunger there is an oblique annular groove, which is combined with a metal rod in the housing.
Mechanics: When the plunger rotates due to the oblique groove, it also makes back and forth movements back and forth for each revolution.
Hydraulics: When the cut portion of the end of the plunger approaches the suction port, the plunger is pulled back. a small vacuum is created, a portion of the oil is sucked into the cylinder.
Turning the plunger about half a turn. the cut-off section (of course, with the oil in it) fits the discharge hole.
At this time, the plunger moves towards the blind end of the cylinder. Some pressure is created, the oil enters the lubrication channel.
Now, about the differences in design: The gear on the plunger can be metal. In this case, the worm on the crankshaft will be plastic, you can’t get anywhere, it should be
The pump housing may be metal. Well, not bad, of course, but not fundamentally.
And most importantly. the adjustment of the oil supply. In the first case, when the axial movement of the plunger is carried out by an oblique annular groove.
Performance adjustment is not technically possible. If the longitudinal movement is due to an oblique cut of the back of the plunger, flow adjustment is possible.
Using different variants of the adjustable stop of the rear part of the plunger, the length of its axial movement and, accordingly, the amount of oil captured per revolution of the plunger are changed.
how often do you need to syringe a chainsaw tire? And as I understand it, the lubricant should be consistent, like lithol approximately? Or is the same transmission permissible?
I bought a new chain, installed, it works fine. But after a couple of minutes, the hole in the tire for oil supply is blocked, and the chain goes dry.
Literally enough for one cut. Again, disassemble, clean, run. Without sawing, the chain is lubricated. And after one cut, the tire is again clogged with chips.
I didn’t try Gazanut, because I didn’t have time, the chain almost wedges, I can’t turn it by hand, and the tire and chain are terribly hot, the chainsaw stalls. Tell me what the problem is, with the old chain this was not observed?
There is a big suspicion that the lubricating oil is actually going on, only because of the large amount of dust (perhaps now saw dry wood, or even with dust) falling into the groove of the tire and it is not visible on the chain.
What is the condition of the tire itself? In this case, the condition of the driven sprocket and tire spacers (the chain slides during operation) in those places where the teeth of the sprocket during rotation is especially important "dive" inside the tire or appear from there.
Also, in case of excessive wear of the spacers, the depth of the groove of the tire and the chain shanks can cling to the bottom of the groove during movement, could decrease below an acceptable level.
In this case, too, there will be excessive heating of the circuit and bus. After all, apparently this chain is not the first for the tire.
In addition, the fact that the saw stalls when the chain is jammed indicates a malfunctioning clutch. There is either dirt between the clutch cams and its cup, or the cup itself is deformed. Clutch springs may be stretched.
You have recently owned a chainsaw, and you still do not know which oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain is better to use. The lack of this knowledge can adversely affect the tool, because the type and quality of the lubricant depends on how long the tire and chain of the tool will remain operational.
Video: Lubrication Driven Sprocket Tires Chainsaws
After reading this article, you will fill the knowledge gap, as we will consider the use of oils from various manufacturers and brands to reduce friction between the parts of the saw set. And also we will figure out what additional lubricants are used to service the chainsaw in order to maximize its service life.
What oil to use to lubricate chainsaw chains
The answer to this question is quite simple, for this it is necessary to open the instruction for any saw and it will indicate that it is necessary to fill in oil with a good adhesive effect.
Adhesion is an indication of the adhesion of a material, in this case oil, to the metal surface of a tire and chain.
Why is this necessary? The fact is that the chain moves along the tire at high speed, and if oil is used as a lubricant that has low adhesion, then most of it, by inertia, flies from the end of the tire and lubrication of its lower part does not occur. This phenomenon can be observed if you conduct a small experiment. Start a chainsaw, point the end of the tire towards a bright surface and add gas as much as possible. As a result, oil spots will appear on it, which are proof of the theory.
Chainsaw sprocket grease
To increase the service life and reduce friction on the drive sprocket, the manufacturer equips this mechanism with a needle bearing, which must be lubricated periodically. Stihl multi-purpose grease can be used for lubrication.
If you do not want to overpay, it is better to use an inexpensive, but no less high-quality option, Litol or Litol 24. grease. Due to its viscosity, Litol will easily replace the original one.
Lubricate the sprocket of the chainsaw tire, you can use the same lubricants as the lead, using a special syringe for this. This allows the lubrication to be pressed through the technological holes in the tire to the sprocket bearing.
Adhesive Oil Manufacturers
Almost all manufacturers of chainsaws are engaged in the production and supplies for them, explaining this by the fact that these products are most suitable for use with their saws. As far as this information is true, there is no information, but based on the experience of operating and repairing chainsaws, it can be noted that there are no significant differences in the service life of parts or at least visible wear.
But the fact is the fact, manufacturers recommend and it is impossible to hide it. So, back to the manufacturers, and start with the popular Stihl brand.
Adhesive oils Stihl
The following adhesive oils are presented on the company’s website for various operating temperatures and having a good lubricating index:
- ForestPlus adhesive oil. recommended for use at temperatures up to.15 ° C, shelf life under storage conditions of 3 years. It is delivered in liter or five liter containers;
- BioPlus. its feature is a plant base, which allows it to quickly decompose when it enters the soil. It is applied up to minus 15, it is delivered in three, five and one-liter containers;
- The latest SynthPlus oil has the ability to maintain performance at minus 25 ° C.
The company offers its customers Husqvarna Bio Advanced oil for use in normal and extreme conditions. The oil is made from plant components and is safe for the environment, supplied in liter and five liter containers.
As a cost-effective solution, the company has Vegoil oil, according to the manufacturer, its consumption compared to others is reduced by 40%. It is delivered in liter containers.
The company also produces bearing grease, which it recommends to lubricate the bearings of the drive sprocket and sprocket on the saw bar.
Less common, but popular with chainsaw owners, are:
- Polar Lube Mineral. Digging Oleo-Mac;
- Adhesive CHAMPION, sold in containers of up to 10 liters, which is convenient for use in forestry;
- Makita Biotop;
You can get acquainted with some chain oils by watching the video below, in which the seller of a large network of tools comments on the use of adhesive oils from various manufacturers.
How to replace the original expensive oil and is it worth it
In situations where it is not possible to use the original, you can replace them with oil for car engines. Cheap automobile oils such as autol or diesel lubrication options, due to reduced adhesive properties, are unsuitable for long-term use.
Some owners, despite the recommendations, still use analogues, preferring to change the tire and chain more often, but here everyone decides for himself. Such an oil cannot have any negative effects on the lubrication system, which means that the difference is only in the quality of tire protection against chain friction.
A little bit about lubricating the chainsaw chains
Refining is called oil that has expired in the engine or gearbox of a car. Many owners of chainsaws, trying to save money, use it to lubricate the chain, which translates into serious repair costs.
The cause of these breakdowns is the presence in the mining of impurities of metal chips that settle in the crankcase, and at the time of drainage of mining from the pallet merges with it.
Getting on the tire, metal shavings act on its surface as an abrasive. Simply put, instead of protecting the surface, mining enhances wear on the tire, drive sprocket, and follower sprocket bearing on the tire. Workout also affects the chain of the chainsaw, in those places where it bends and increases the risk of breaking the chain mechanism.
Conclusion: to lubricate the chainsaw chains you need to use original lubricants from manufacturers. Running out of the car engine is not allowed. In the absence of high-quality oils, a short-term replacement by clean automobile oils is allowed
A selection of tips for those who already own a chainsaw or chain saw and, most likely, do not suspect that they are reducing its resource or walking on the edge in terms of basic safety precautions.
First, some simple tips on how to extend the life of a chainsaw.
Sharpen the chain regularly.
Sharpening chains of saws is something that should be discussed separately, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the Internet. If the chain is dull, the load on the engine will increase, and you will also have to make more efforts on the part of the operator, which will additionally accelerate the wear of the tire and sprockets. Roughly the chain requires sharpening after the consumption of 2-4 tanks of gasoline.
For sharpening chains, special files or machines are usually used. If the chain is dulled slightly, it is enough to just file 3-4 times in a file in one direction (forward) at the right angle. This will take several minutes and extend the life of the motor.
Watch chain tension
The chain should not be too tight or sag, otherwise it will lead to premature wear of the sprockets, clutch, as well as to break the chain. In addition, the load on the tire studs will increase.
To check the chain tension, the saw must be placed on the floor and pulled by the chain, holding in the middle of the tire. The chain should extend 2-4 mm or approximately half the bottom of the tooth from the tire.
It is also important to remember that during operation the chain is slightly stretched due to heating.
Turn over the tire periodically and watch for an asterisk
For most saws, the driven tire sprocket also requires lubrication. What exactly. it is better to clarify in the instructions. Usually, a special grease and a grease nipple or syringe are used for this, pumping grease through a special hole.
It is recommended that the tire itself be turned over periodically so that wear on the upper and lower edges is the same. Thus, you will increase its service life.
Replace chain, sprocket and tire regularly.
A tire requires replacement less often. Typically, four chains have to change the sprocket twice and once the tire. over, a new chain mounted on a sprocket asterisk will wear out a little faster. Therefore, it is recommended that you always have two chains with the saw and put them one at a time as sharpening is required again.
Use of low viscosity oils
To lubricate the circuit, it is extremely undesirable to use refining, transformer oils, etc., since their viscosity is too low and they do not have a package of necessary additives. The use of such oils not only increases their consumption in comparison with the declared in the saw characteristics (which consumers often and unreasonably complain), but also leads to faster wear of the chain and tire, as well as to disruption of the oil pump and damage to rubber gaskets.
Do not store gasoline and fuel mixtures in food containers
Plastic bottles of water and food products are not suitable for long-term storage of fuel, since gasoline is a corrosive environment for them. The presence of gasoline in such a container will worsen its properties not only as fuel, but also as lubricant if oil for two-stroke engines was present in it.
Only metal or plastic canisters specially designed for the storage of fuels and lubricants should be used.
Now is the time to remind you of security. To some, these tips will seem simple, but you need to understand that, as a rule, a combination of several different factors leads to tragedy. And if at least one of them is eliminated, "the stars will not converge," and the head, arm or leg will remain whole.
The stand when working with a chainsaw is similar to a boxing one. For right-handers: left leg slightly forward at an angle of 45 °. Feet shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent. Work with a saw is made to the side of the operator.
Hold the saw with both hands.
Also, cut at full throttle and during operation do not take your eyes off the saw bar.
Calculate the cut in advance
And often analyze the process so that it does not turn out that the saw comes out of the log in the place where your foot is.
Remember that the saw always pulls
To the log, if you saw the bottom of the tire, and from the log, if the top.
Remember the probability of a rebound saw
It increases when working with the end of the tire (upper quarter). For the same reason, give preference to chains with a small kickback. They are slightly less productive, but much safer in this regard.
Use protective clothing
Special gloves, trousers and jackets with protection against cutting, glasses (mask), hard hat, headphones and shoes with metal capes.