Such a machine will help to make neat joints for garden furniture and light buildings.
Due to the affordable price, compactness and improved characteristics, miter saws with a broach almost completely replaced radial-console saws from carpentry workshops and from construction sites. Few people know that with these machines you can make blind cuts for the manufacture of half-tree joints, grooves or folds. Such a machine is especially suitable for processing large and heavy parts from raw material that are difficult to handle. The shown working methods can be used with machines having a saw blade with a diameter of 250 or 300 mm. Before starting any cuts, make sure that the angles of 90 and 45 ° are fine-tuned. If necessary, additionally tune the machine using the manufacturer’s instructions and our tips in the article “6 ways to achieve more from a miter saw”. So, we begin to saw.
Define the limit of your machine
With through cuts, the teeth of the blade of any saw pass just below the surface of the table before stop. But, when you raise the disc above the table for cut-through cuts, the lower point of the circumference of the disc does not reach the stop (photo A) and the length of the cut is reduced.
The raised disk does not extend beyond the stop plane, leaving an unfinished jumper on the workpiece pressed against the stop.
Turn the adjusting screw until it touches the stop that limits the depth of cut.
To know exactly where the cut will go, start by setting the depth (usually equal to half the thickness of the part) using a stopper (photo B) whose functions are described in the instructions. Disconnect the machine from the network and pull the drive toward you, pushing it to the maximum. Lower the blade to the desired cutting depth and place a mark on the table exactly under the center of the spindle (photo C).
Video: Miter Saws
Using a square or rectangular board cut, mark the extreme forward position of the spindle with a pencil on the table.
Slide the disc all the way back and re-mark. Two marks define the maximum width of the board that can be processed in this way.
Now move the disc back to the end and again mark the position of its center (a photo D) The distance between the two marks determines the maximum length of the passage for this depth of cut (for our saw it was approximately 150 mm). Measure the distance from the rear edge of the cut to the stop and cut out a spacer from the scraps that is 1.5 mm wider than this distance. Then, using the standard clip or double-sided tape, fix the spacer on the table, pressing it against the stop.
Measure once. and then they drank, drank, drank
Mark the connection on the part in half the tree. 11Click the part to the spacer. Note. A part that rests only on a table and does not adjoin the stop does not have sufficient support. Use additional side supports if necessary.
Make cuts at the ends of both parts that limit the length of the sample, and then a series of cuts at short intervals to facilitate removal of excess material (photo E). With a hammer, break off the partitions between the cuts. After that, line the bottom with a wide chisel (a photo F), a small plane or zenbel.
While pressing the workpiece against the spacer, make cuts at intervals of about 5 mm to remove most of the excess material.
Work with a chisel from the edges to the middle to remove residual material at the bottom of the groove. Minor irregularities will be hidden in the connection.
Check fit of connection parts (a photo G) If the joint is too tight, remove some material from both parts so that they are inserted into each other using light rubber smooths.
This well-fitted joint will look great on the terrace, in the gazebo, fence and other garden buildings. Over time, as the wood dries, it may weaken a little.